Domeniile Franco-Române: A Taste of Romanian Winemaking Excellence

In the realm of wine, Romania is probably not the first (or even the fiftieth!) country that comes to mind, especially for Americans. Yet, Romania’s tradition of good-quality winemaking has deep, historic roots, dating back thousands of years.

Unfortunately, there was a significant blip in quality between 1948 and 1989, during the country’s communist period, from which the Romanian wine industry is still recovering. During that time, most vineyards were owned by the state, which valued quantity over quality. However, after 1989 cooperative vineyards returned to private ownership, and better-quality winemaking resumed.

The French Connection

For those who love exploring wineries from underrepresented countries, like Romania, here’s one for you: Domeniile Franco-Române. The winery was established in 2000 by visionary winemaker Denis Thomas, a wine grower and producer from Bourgogne. Thomas brought French grapes like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to Romania’s Dealu Mare region, where the climate resembles Bourgogne's, and established a Romanian winery with a French spirit.

From the beginning, Thomas practiced organic farming, and in 2006, his winery became the very first Ecocert organic-certified Romanian winery. This environmentally friendly approach not only enhances the quality of the wine but also reflects the winery's commitment to responsible agriculture.

Thomas’s mission was clear: to create wines that embrace finesse and elegance while, at the same time, expressing the terroir of Romania. Thomas was an unusual character in Romania at that time. He was a visionary who went against the trends, both in terms of organic viticulture, considered a fad at the time, and in terms of his style of winemaking. The Romanian wine drinkers of the early 2000s were interested in big, heavy, oak-extracted wines. Thomas’s wines, on the other hand, especially his Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Feteasca Neagra, showed a light and delicate fruity touch with minimal, if any, time spent aging in barrels. Yet his passion and determination laid the foundation for a winery that would soon become a trailblazer in Romanian winemaking.

Eventually, Thomas decided to sell the winery and rejoin his family in France. In 2020, two young investors, Mihnea Olariu, who comes from a grape-growing family, and Mihnea Mihalache, purchased the winery and are in the process of continuing Thomas’s French legacy, while also sharing the joy of Romanian wines worldwide. The winery’s 85 hectares are planted with both noble Romanian and international grape varieties.

Tasting the Excellence

During a 5-course tasting lunch, a small group of wine journalists gathered around Mihnea Olariu at Chef Daniel Boulud’s French bistro Le Gratin in Manhattan. We were introduced to a selection of Domeniile Franco-Române wines, white, rosé, and red. Each one embodied that unique French-Romanian spirit in every delicious sip!

Poached Leek Salad. The leek salad, tossed with a zesty mustard vinaigrette, was paired with Arrogance White Dry Wine 2021, a white wine made from an 85/15 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Feteasca Alba. This full-bodied wine's fresh and lively acidity and citrus notes were a great match to the freshness of the leeks and the vinaigrette's tang.

Regarding the name Arrogance, Olariu says they aimed for it to be "extravagant, out of the box, unique, and catchy." It seems they achieved exactly that!

Jumbo Lump Crab. The second course, jumbo lump crabmeat, was served on a bed of Boston lettuce adorned with pink grapefruit and avocado and paired with Arrogance Rosé Semi-Dry 2021. This 100% Merlot’s fruit-forward yet mineral, slightly sweet profile enhanced the crab and grapefruit flavors and created a refreshing pairing.

French Onion Soup. This classic cheesy soup, rich in flavor and aroma, was paired with the Vigneron Pinot Noir 2017. The medium-bodied wine's red fruit notes and subtle, savory earthiness beautifully complemented the deep flavors of the soup.

This100% Pinot Noir has medium-plus, silky tannins and well-balanced acidity.

Gratin dauphinois, a signature potato dish at Le Gratin, was out of this world. Photo: legratinnyc.

Paprika-Crusted Baked Cod with a Bean Fricassée. This seafood dish paired fabulously with the DFR Feteasca Neagra 2020. The red wine's dark berry flavors and hints of spice enhanced the cod's rich, savory notes.

Photo: leGratinnyc.

Feteasca Neagra, a native grape of Romania whose name translates as “The Black Maiden ,” is a big, juicy wine with flavors of blackberry, plum, cinnamon and spice with a mineral backbone.

Seasonal Cheeses. The meal concluded with a tasty array of cheeses alongside the Domeniile Franco-Române wines we had sampled – a perfect conclusion to a meal filled with discovery.

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