Podere Sapaio, a Balancing Act in Bolgheri

The Bolgheri wine region is well known for its pricy Super Tuscans—Ornellaia, Sassacaia, and Masseto, to name a few. Yet numerous other producers in this rugged land between the sea and the hills are making exceptional and somewhat more affordable wines worth seeking out.

Podere Sapaio is one of them. Founded in 1999 by Massimo Piccin, it is one of the approximately 65 wineries of this small appellation located in Maremma on the Tuscan coast.

Piccin’s longstanding dream of owning a winery was finally realized when he acquired a barren property in Bolgheri. He was enamored by the property's proximity to the coast, its fertile soils, and the warm camaraderie of the winemaking community. He immediately began planting vineyards, guided by renowned winemaking consultant Carlo Ferrini.

In keeping with Bolgheri's tradition, Piccin planted Bordeaux grapes—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot—instead of Tuscany's indigenous Sangiovese. He successfully crafted two wines, with the inaugural vintage in 2004.

All photos by Lisa Denning

Harmony

Piccin, I came to learn, strives for balance, both in his wines and in his personal life. Over plates of pizza and pasta at L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele in NYC, he shared his newfound passion for two distinct yet complementary sports: boxing and pilates. Boxing, he finds, delivers an energetic and aggressive workout that develops cardio fitness and strength, while pilates requires a calm, measured approach that promotes flexibility and mindfulness.

Photo: Lisa Denning

This pursuit of physical balance through two very different sports mirrors Massimo's symmetry in his wines where juicy fruit, structured tannins, high acidity, and prominent alcohol meld together, creating a perfectly balanced beverage.

Podere Sapaio wines are big, bold Super Tuscans, yet they are also refreshing, elegant, and enjoyable to drink.

Tasting notes: Podere Sapaio Wines

Podere Sapaio produces two lines of wine: Volpolo and Sapaio. Volpolo, a Bolgheri DOC, is typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (15%), and Petit Verdot (15%). Sapaio, an IGT wine, is principally Cabernet Sauvignon-based with smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Volpolo wines can be found from about $30 to $40 a bottle, while Sapaio wines run upwards of about $100. Both Volpolo and Sapaio can be enjoyed now, but the Sapaio line is best after a few years or more, resting in the bottle.

Volpolo 2021 - Fragrant red cherry on the nose; big and juicy on the palate with chalky tannins; spicy and rich with notes of violets and black fruit yet light on its feet and finessed; well-balanced fruit, structure, acidity, and alcohol. 2021 was an excellent year for grape growing in Bolgheri.

Volpolo 2016 - A warm vintage, Intense red cherry on the nose; big, bold, and tangy on the palate with a touch of oakiness and a very long fruity finish. Seems very young for a seven-year-old wine.

Sapaio 2020 - Red cherry, blueberry, chalk, and a hint of oak on the nose; great balance of dark and red berry fruit notes and acidity on the palate without any overwhelming oak notes; well-structured.

Sapaio 2019 - Subtle notes of cherry and blackberry on the nose; full-bodied, rich and complex, with silky tannins and great acidity to balance out the fruit and tannins.

Sapaio 2015 - Vanilla oaky notes mingle with red cherry on the nose; Juicy with strong tannins on the palate; a long, luscious finish. Very savory, starting to show secondary characteristics, like hints of tobacco notes.

Sapaio 2008 - Strong vanilla oakiness on the nose with fruity “sweetness” and a spicy peppery note on the palate; long finish.