For far too long Pinot Grigio has been considered a dull and simple wine; one without much more flavor than a glass of water. And while it’s true that the marketplace is full of bland, mass-produced versions, there are also exciting, mineral-driven Pinot Grigio to be found. Look to the producers of Alto Adige — a favorite is Cantina Tramin — for some of the best examples: crisp and fresh Pinot Grigios with floral, citrus and stone fruit notes; wines that will brighten up any meal.

Alto Adige, 60 miles from the Austrian border and known to its mostly German-speaking inhabitants as the Südtirol, is a land of contrasts — an Alpine and Mediterranean meeting point of stunning mountain and valley landscapes. Cantina Tramin is a historic, cooperative winery whose 160 member growers have been carefully tending vines for generations.

Cantina Tramin’s winery combines a modern structure with the original cellars. Photo: @cantinatramin on Instagram — **Cantina Tramin’s winery combines a modern structure with the original cellars.** *Photo: @cantinatramin on Instagram*

The grapes grow in the foothills of the Dolomite mountains within a glacial valley of calcareous clay and gravel soils. Here you will find an extreme interplay between sunny days, influenced by the Mediterranean climate, and cool nights, marked by the cold downslope winds from the surrounding mountains — perfect conditions for creating lively wines.

Cantina Tramin’s 2019 Pinot Grigio delivers a fragrant whiff of fresh mountain air to the glass with intoxicating notes of citrus fruits, pears, apples and white flowers. On the palate it brings mouthwatering, lemony crispness, along with hints of herbaceousness and licorice, all wrapped up in a velvety texture.

This wine makes a fantastic appetite-enlivening apéritif, yet also pairs well with everything from a simply dressed salad to crispy chicken cutlets, as well as richer dishes based on mushrooms, fish and seafood.