Sipping Your Way Through December — Day 21

Welcome to Day 21 of The Wine Chef’s Advent Calendar.

M. Chapoutier 'La Combe Pilate' Esteban Brut Nature 2022 ($40)

Tonight I opened a white wine and thought, eh. Then I opened another, followed by two reds—same reaction every time. I started to wonder if it was me. Some days are definitely better than others for tasting wine. I decided to give it one last try and reached for a bottle of bubbles: M. Chapoutier’s La Combe Pilate Esteban Brut Nature 2022.

Now this was what I was looking for: bright, fresh, and flavorful, with zippy acidity. “Phew,” I thought. “It’s not faulty taste buds.” And the hubby agreed. One sip and I got the nod.

This Brut Nature (the driest style of sparkling wine) is 100% Viognier, grown biodynamically in the Rhône Valley. Viognier is typically associated with rich, aromatic still wines, but here it’s transformed into a sleek, bone-dry sparkling wine with no added dosage (sweet liquid). It’s pure and lively, with no sugar to soften the edges, just clean fruit, tension, and energy.

On the nose, Esteban delivers citrus, green apple, and pear, layered with hints of apricot, peach, light florals, and a gentle nuttiness from a brief time on the lees. The palate is crisp, with crunchy apple, grapefruit, and stone fruit carried by bright, racy acidity. The bubbles are fine and persistent, and the finish is dry, crisp, and refreshing—a very ‘Champagne-esque’ sparkling wine.

Behind this wine is one of the Rhône Valley’s most respected names. Founded in 1808 in Tain-l’Hermitage, the M. Chapoutier estate has been family-run since 1879 and is now led by Michel Chapoutier, with his daughter Mathilde serving as commercial director. A pioneer of biodynamic viticulture since the 1980s, Chapoutier is also known for introducing Braille labels in 1996 and for his expertise in Northern Rhône’s most prestigious areas, such as Hermitage.

This sparkling wine is a fantastic aperitif, especially with seafood—think oysters or sushi. But it can go with just about any type of food. We enjoyed it tonight with roast chicken and buttery mashed potatoes—the wine’s bright acidity and fine bubbles cut through the dish's richness beautifully.

M. Chapoutier’s Esteban Brut Nature is a smart alternative to Champagne when you want something a little unexpected, and very easy to love.