The Thanksgiving Wine Edit: Exploring the Finger Lakes and Napa Valley
/I haven’t hosted Thanksgiving in years. My holiday entertaining kicks off in December. But I’m always in charge of the wine, no matter the holiday or whether it’s at my house or someone else’s.
Rummaging through my collection for an interesting mix of bottles is one of my favorite things to do. With so many people and so many dishes, I like to bring plenty of options, and my main criteria is nothing heavy or oaky, and easy on the alcohol. (Okay, I’ll admit I throw a couple of bruisers into the wine tote for those who won’t drink anything else.) The rest of the wines are fresh and balanced, with enough lively acidity to carry everyone through an indulgent meal.
This year I’ll be including two U.S. wineries from two very different places: Dr. Konstantin Frank in New York’s Finger Lakes and Bouchaine Vineyards in Napa Valley’s Carneros district. Both produce wines that I know everyone will enjoy.
A Little Background
Dr. Konstantin Frank was a Ukrainian immigrant with a PhD in viticulture who founded his winery on the slopes of Keuka Lake in 1962. He proved that European varieties like Riesling and Chardonnay could thrive in the Finger Lakes. His son, Willy Frank, expanded the winery’s portfolio into traditional-method sparkling wines using classic Champagne grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Today, the third and fourth generations, Fred Frank and his daughter Meaghan, farm about 130 estate acres planted to 17 varieties.
On the opposite side of the country is Bouchaine Vineyards, the oldest continuously operating winery in Carneros. It’s situated at the southern end of Napa Valley above San Pablo Bay, where fog and breezes keep the climate cool enough for the winery’s multiple clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Bouchaine also grows several other varieties, including Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Wines
Let’s start with bubbles, a perfect appetite awakener. The Finger Lakes is one of the few places in North America cool enough to make world-class traditional-method sparkling wine, with long growing seasons that preserve acidity and freshness, much like Champagne. In 2025, Dr. Konstantin Frank celebrated 40 years of making it.
I tasted three Dr. Frank sparklers, sold together as a $125 gift pack. The 2022 Brut ($34.99) is the cocktail-hour wine. With green apple and citrus, it is made for oysters and a meat-and-cheese platter. The 100% Chardonnay 2021 Blanc de Blanc, with toast and lemon peel, is the one for the appetizers at the table; think smoked salmon on toast and cheesy cream puffs stuffed with ham. But the bottle for the heavy lifting is the 2021 Blanc de Noirs ($44.99). It’s 100% Pinot Noir, aged at least 42 months on the lees, with golden pear, wild strawberry, and brioche, and it has the weight to stand up to the turkey and all the trimmings.
Moving to still whites, the Dr. Frank 2025 Dry Riesling ($19.99) just might be my go-to white wine for the holidays. Orange zest, apricot, and pineapple ride on steely acidity and shale-like minerality, which makes it a match for everything from turkey and stuffing to cranberry sauce.
Bouchaine’s wines, by contrast, show their California sun. They’re rounder, fuller, and higher in alcohol than the New York wines, but still fresh and energetic. Next to the steely Dr. Frank Riesling (12% ABV), the Bouchaine 2023 Estate Riesling (13.8% ABV & $55) is opulently aromatic with white flowers, peach, lemongrass, and a hint of honey. Its full body gives it enough weight to hold its own alongside all the flavors on the table, while its zingy acidity cuts through richer dishes; in other words, a perfect wine for Thanksgiving.
The Bouchaine 2023 Gewürztraminer ($55) is another excellent aromatic option for anyone tired of Chardonnay. Lychee and apricot aromas draw you in, while crisp acidity, textural richness, and fresh flavors that linger on your palate make you want another sip.
Want more body? The Dr. Frank 2025 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc ($19.99) has ripe strawberry, red cherry, a touch of strawberry yogurt, and a savory edge. It’s fuller than most rosés, with enough texture for heartier dishes and acidity that keeps it refreshing.
For reds, Pinot Noir is one of my favorite Thanksgiving choices, thanks to its fresh acidity and ability to go with all kinds of food. The Dr. Konstantin Frank 2024 Old Vines Pinot Noir ($27.99), from vines planted in 1958, has ripe cherry, cranberry, and raspberry with earthy notes and spice. Moderate tannins make it easy with turkey and the sides. I’d serve it slightly chilled.
The Bouchaine 2023 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir ($75) is the savory contrast, with black cherry and dried apricot alongside anise, leather, mushroom, and black pepper. Fresh acidity and well-integrated tannins give it structure, and the earthiness brings Burgundy to mind.
Finally, for anyone who wants a red with more structure but still plenty of freshness, the Dr. Frank 2024 Cabernet Franc ($27.99) comes from the Finger Lakes’ signature red grape. Red berries, plum, bell pepper, and a touch of tobacco make it a great partner for herb-infused stuffing, roasted root vegetables, and Brussels sprouts.
Happy Thanksgiving. May your tote bag be heavy and your glasses never empty!
