Growing and Going Together: Franciacorta Sparkling Wine and Lake Fish with Lemon Caper Sauce

This simple but tasty fish dish was inspired by my love of Franciacorta, an Italian sparkling wine from Lombardy in northern Italy.

Throughout Europe, the name of a wine typically reflects the area from which it hails. For example, Barolo comes from Barolo, a village in Piedmont, and Chianti comes from Chianti, a region of Tuscany. Similarly, Franciacorta wine comes from Franciacorta, a captivating territory located at the foothills of the alps, just to the southeast of Lake Iseo. With rolling hills of rich glacial soil and a favorable climate, it’s no wonder that wine has been produced here for centuries.

Vineyards near the shore of Lake Iseo. Photo courtesy of Ricci Curbastro Winery.

Vineyards near the shore of Lake Iseo. Photo courtesy of Ricci Curbastro Winery.

And when it comes to Franciacorta and food, the saying “What grows together, goes together” couldn’t be more apt. Lake Iseo, a beautiful gem of the Italian Lake District, is just a hop, skip, and a jump from the Franciacorta vineyards. The lake’s shores are adorned with scenic fishing villages and a tasty array of lake fish can be found on every local restaurant menu.

Read more about Franciacorta wines (and two top wineries) following the recipe.

Fish Filets with Lemon and Caper Sauce

This recipe is a typical dish of Lake Iseo, usually prepared with pike, trout or sardines. Feel free to substitute other flaky, white fish favorites, like cod, flounder, halibut, sole, catfish, or striped bass. 

Ingredients

Serves 2

Photo:@eighteendining on Instagram

Photo:@eighteendining on Instagram

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 - 2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 - 2 anchovy filets, finely chopped

2 tablespoons capers

1/3 cup parsley, chopped

1 teaspoon (plus a little more to squeeze on fish) lemon juice

salt and pepper to taste

2 fish filets (check that all bones are removed)

Instructions

1) In a small saucepan heat olive oil over low heat. Add onion and sauté until caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook for another minute. Remove from heat. Mix in anchovy, capers, parsley, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Set aside.

2) Season the fish filets with salt and pepper. Place a medium-sized sauté pan over medium-high heat. When hot, sauté the filets for about 10 minutes per inch of fish (for example, a ½” thick filet would be sautéed 2 -3 minutes per side).

3) Dress the fish with the sauce. Add an additional squeeze of lemon juice on top of each filet and serve with grilled vegetables, Easy, Creamy Polenta, and a glass of Franciacorta sparkling wine.

Franciacorta’s fine bubbles make it an excellent choice as an apéritif or with an entire meal.

Franciacorta’s fine bubbles make it an excellent choice as an apéritif or with an entire meal.

Top Quality Sparkling Wines

Made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc, Franciacorta is produced in a few different styles — from ‘Zero Dosage,’ a completely dry style, to those with a touch of residual sugar, extra brut and a bit more, brut, as well as a few sweet versions, not very popular nowadays.

In terms of quality, Franciacorta wines are made in the metodo classico (traditional method), as in Champagne, with a second fermentation taking place inside the bottle. Additionally, Franciacorta wines are required to age at least 18 months on the lees (the dead yeast cells leftover from the fermentation process), with the riserva wines remaining on them for a minimum of five years. The secondary fermentation, as well as the long period of maturation (more aging time than in any other sparkling wine region) adds aromatic complexity and richness to the wines.

Owing to its relatively small production, the wines of Franciacorta remain fairly unknown in the global market. But for those in the know, Franciacorta is regarded as Italy's finest sparkling wine, and an excellent alternative to pricier Champagne.

Get to know Franciacorta by trying the wines from the region’s 120+ producers, 80% of which farm organically, without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or other artificial chemicals.

Two Franciacorta Wine Producers To Know About

Teresio Schiavi and sons.

Teresio Schiavi and sons.

Mirabella Franciacorta

This family-owned winery is run by three trained enologists, Teresio Schiavi, who founded Mirabella in 1979, and his two sons, Alessandro and Alberto. Leaders in sustainable and organic viticulture and winemaking, the Schiavis produce eight Mirabella wines, including a rosé (2019) that was the first Franciacorta to be listed in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines.

In addition to sustainability, Mirabella is celebrated for its abundant plantings of Pinot Bianco. Many wine producers stopped growing the grape due to its extremely delicate nature. The Schiavis, on the other hand, saw the potential of this high-acid, elegant grape, and continued its use, despite the extra work it requires. With global warming, their persistence has paid off since the grape adds much freshness to the wines. Today, the estate owns the most Pinot Bianco vines in the region.

Mirabella Edea ($26). A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, the wine spends at least 24 months aging on its lees, resulting in delicate notes of brioche, along with an elegant fruitiness — think golden apples and banana. The bright acidity is tempered by a touch of honey on the finish, making it a great match with the fish dish.

Mirabella Satèn ($27). Satèn means silky in Italian and, true to the name, this sparkling wine is soft and silky on the palate, with a distinct creaminess. The gentle texture of the wine comes from the use of less pressure in the bottle for all Satèn wines. And with its long aging on the lees (36 months), the wine offers much complexity of flavors: refreshing citrusy notes, as well as subtle hints of honey, banana, and vanilla.

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The many shades of Mirabella Franciacorta.

The many shades of Mirabella Franciacorta.

Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta

One of the pioneers of the Franciacorta region, the Curbastro family has a farming history that dates back to the 1300s. The winery, known for its top-quality, organic sparkling wines, is run today by the 17th and 18th generations, Riccardo Ricci Curbastro and his son Gaulberto.

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In 2017, Ricci Curbastro was among the first nine companies in Italy, and the first in Lombardy, to be certified as a “Sustainable Winery” for its commitment to environmental, economic and social issues.

Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Brut ($32). A wonderfully expressive example of Franciacorta, with an enchanting combination of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, aged at least 30 months on the lees. Excellent as an aperitif with hors d’oeuvres, soft cheeses, and delicate fish dishes.

Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2014 ($38). After 40-48 months on the lees, this satèn wine has a lot of character and structure — a true food wine. Serve it with everything from appetizers, salads, and cheeses, to the above fish dish, or with grilled chicken and meats.

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