Sicily in a Glass: How White Wines Are Redefining the Island’s Story

Wine trends tend to move in cycles, but one of the clearest shifts in recent years has been the growing taste for lighter wines. More and more wine drinkers are reaching for bottles that are refreshing and nuanced, and better suited to laid-back dinners with friends than to formal, drawn-out meals.

I’ve written before about how this plays out in Sicilian reds such as Frappato, a wine that delivers vibrant fruit and lower alcohol. But whites may be the purest expression of this trend. Their naturally lighter body, lower alcohol, and zippy acidity fit today’s mood perfectly.

A Look Back: The Weight of History

Italy has always been one of the world’s wine superpowers. Its warm climate and diverse terroirs made it an agricultural paradise for vines. But that same sun-soaked warmth, especially in southern Italian regions like Sicily, can also lead to wines that are powerful, dark in color, and often high in alcohol.

For much of the 20th century, Sicily in particular was associated with quantity over quality. Expansive vineyard areas churned out grapes that were turned into bulk wine and shipped north, where they were blended into lighter wines that needed a boost of body, color, and alcohol. At the time, cool-climate regions in northern Italy often struggled to ripen their grapes fully, so the southern backbone was essential.

Those days feel far away now. With advances in viticulture, a renewed respect for terroir, and climate change (ripening is not a challenge in the north anymore), Sicily has turned its focus towards crafting quality-based wines, red and, increasingly, white.

At this year’s edition of Sicilia en Primeur, dozens of producers were pouring their wines during a grand tasting held in Modica, a UNESCO World Heritage site. When asked about the rise of Sicily’s white wines, Giovanna Caruso of Caruso & Minini noted how times have changed. “In the past,” she said, “people wanted full-bodied reds with big structure. Nowadays, it’s the opposite. Most people are moving toward fresh whites with lighter body.”

Fabio Torrisi, Sales Director of Barone di Villagrande on Mount Etna, agreed, saying that in the past five or six years, he’s been seeing more interest in Sicilian whites. “I think the new generation appreciates more elegance,” he told me, “rather than the older style of Sicilian wines that were very heavy, with lots of alcohol.”

A Story of Terroir

Though Sicily is known for blazing sunshine, its vineyards thrive in diverse microclimates. Hillside and mountain sites benefit from cool nights that slow ripening and preserve acidity, while coastal plots gain salty freshness from Mediterranean breezes. These conditions are ideal for white grapes, which can ripen fully without losing their freshness.

“You can immediately recognize the style of Sicilian whites by their freshness, acidity, and minerality,” says Caruso. “That’s what’s so important to us.”

On Etna, altitude plays a key role. “We are lucky,” says Torrisi, “Barone di Villagrande’s vineyards sit 700 meters high. The area is exposed to the east, so we get the Mediterranean currents, but also cool winds from northern Italy. It makes the vineyards very windy, and that translates into freshness and elegance in the wine.”

On Etna’s northern slopes, Sofia Ponzini of Tenute Bosco sees something similar, noting how sales of her white wines are improving each year. She explained how the mountain breezes lower the humidity and help the grapes maintain acidity. “Our vineyards also benefit from the volcanic terroir,” she says. “The soil drains quickly, and eruptions, even though they can be challenging, bring new minerals that enrich the vines.”

Climate change is pushing producers higher still. “At lower altitudes, the heat is too intense,” says Grégoire Desforges of Baglio di Pianetto, whose vineyards lie just outside Palermo. “At 700–900 meters, we maintain minerality and acidity, which is essential. I want to make bottles that are easier to drink: lighter, fresher, more fruit-driven.”

White Grapes Leading the Charge

Part of the charm of Sicily’s white wines lies in its indigenous varieties, the grapes that have thrived on the island for centuries but are only now gaining broader recognition.

• Grillo: Once known mostly as a blending grape for Marsala, Grillo is now made on its own, offering a vibrant mix of citrus, stone fruit, and herbal notes. This white often has a touch of salinity that feels like a sea breeze in the glass.

• Carricante: Grown primarily on the slopes of Mount Etna, this grape produces some of Sicily’s most elegant whites. High in acidity and mineral-driven, Carricante can age beautifully, drawing comparisons to Riesling or Chablis.

• Catarratto: The most planted white grape in Sicily, Catarratto has historically been associated with bulk production. But in the right hands, it delivers wines of subtle floral aromatics, almond notes, and a refreshing finish.

• Inzolia (sometimes called Ansonica): Known for its nutty, citrusy profile, Inzolia brings body and character while still remaining lively.

• Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria): Traditionally used to make the island’s famous sweet wines, Zibibbo is increasingly vinified dry, where its fragrant aromas of orange blossom, jasmine, and tropical fruit shine in a fresher, more modern style.

Alongside these native grapes, international varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc have found homes in Sicilian soils, often taking on a distinctive Mediterranean accent that sets them apart from versions grown elsewhere.

Mangia!

Sicilian white wines are incredibly food-friendly. Their brightness makes them natural partners for the island’s seafood-rich cuisine: grilled swordfish, tuna crudo, spaghetti alle vongole. But their versatility extends well beyond local fare. A glass of Carricante cuts through the richness of roast chicken just as easily as it complements sushi. Grillo pairs happily with vegetable-driven dishes, from Mediterranean salads to spicy Asian stir-fries.

As tastes shift toward freshness and balance, Sicily is stepping into the spotlight with whites that are as thrilling as its best reds. So next time you’re scanning a wine list or browsing your local shop, don’t be surprised if the most exciting white on offer turns out to be Sicilian.

Eight Sicilian Whites to Put on Your Shopping List

Note: the SRPs listed below are approximate.

Tenute Bosco Etna Bianco
From Etna’s northern slopes, this Carricante-based white shows the mountain’s terroir with bright acidity, saline minerality, and subtle florals. Founded in 2010 by Sofia Bosco and her husband, Tenute Bosco farms 10 hectares with a focus on tradition. Their Etna Bianco proves why the region is now one of Italy’s top white wine sources. Organic. ($26)

Barone di Villagrande Etna Bianco
Etna’s oldest family-run winery, Barone di Villagrande, has been making wine since 1727 (for 10 generations!). Their Etna Bianco Superiore hails from Milo, one of the few places allowed to carry the Bianco DOC Superiore certification. It balances volcanic minerality with graceful layers of citrus and herbs, a benchmark of the style. Organic. ($24)

Gulfi Carjcanti
Carricante’s home is typically on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, but Gulfi takes it south to the limestone hills of the Monte Iblei, and the results are striking. Carjcanti is a richer, more full-bodied expression of the grape, with bright notes of grapefruit and apricot layered over chalky minerality and a touch of almond. Lively yet silky, it shows how beautifully Carricante can adapt when planted outside its traditional home. ($38)

Mandrarossa Grillo
Mandrarossa is the premium brand of wines produced by Cantine Settesoli, a large Sicilian wine cooperative with over 2,000 members. Their Mandrarossa Grillo is a perfect example of its high-quality offerings. Grown in the sandy, calcareous soils of Menfi, this white is juicy with stone fruit and citrus notes, and with a hint of sea breeze salinity. It’s a perfect reminder of how Grillo has moved from a blending grape to star in its own right. ($14)

Caruso & Minini Zibibbo
Zibibbo, better known as Muscat of Alexandria, is often associated with sweet wines, but Caruso & Minini’s is a great example of its dry, aromatic side. Their version bursts with floral notes and exotic fruit, proving that this ancient grape can be just as delicious in a crisp, refreshing style. Organic. ($15)

Baglio di Pianetto Catarratto
Baglio di Pianetto’s high-altitude vineyards near Palermo give Catarratto an unexpected lift. Once considered a workhorse grape, in their hands it shines with delicate floral aromatics, citrus zest, and a clean, elegant finish, and is a true expression of the new wave of Sicilian whites. Organic. ($19)

Feudo Montoni Inzolia Fornelli
Feudo Montoni, famed for its ancient, pre-phylloxera vines, gives Inzolia new life with a crisp, mineral-driven white. High-elevation vineyards produce a wine with citrusy, nutty character and notable finesse. Organic. ($23)

Santa Tresa Insieme Bianco
This Vittoria-based estate has partnered with the University of Palermo to revive ancient grape varieties that were nearly lost to extinction. From this experimental vineyard, Santa Tresa has revived Albanello and blended it here with Zibibbo and Fiano. Insieme means “together,” and this bottling celebrates Sicily’s winemaking past while pointing to its sustainable future. Organic. ($18)