Sweet Wines, Smart Pairings: Why Asti DOCG Deserves a Second Look
/Sweet sparkling wines like those from Piedmont’s Asti region have an image problem. Even wine pros, like me, who love the taste of a well-made Moscato d’Asti, rarely think of having it with dinner. However, during a recent trade and media lunch at Zuma, a chic Japanese restaurant in Midtown Manhattan, I was reminded exactly why that’s a mistake we should all reconsider.
The lineup included a few classic Asti Spumante, several Moscato d'Asti, both sweet and dry, and one traditional-method sparkling wine, which is usually my go-to style of sparkling wine. However, the sweet, low-alcohol bottlings deliciously held their own as an alternative to the dry ones. All of the styles are bright, aromatic, and well-balanced, with natural acidity and effervescence that make them very food-friendly.
Putting Them to The Test
Asti DOCG wines rose to the challenge of a seafood-centric menu of pristine sushi and sashimi, rock shrimp tempura, earthy spinach with sesame, charred corn with spiced butter, tender miso black cod, and spicy beef tenderloin glazed in a red chili and sesame sauce. The wine’s gentle sweetness smoothed out the heat from the chili while complementing the savory, rich umami flavors and subtle sweetness of the seafood.
Giacomo Pondini, Director of the Consorzio Asti DOCG, explained during the lunch that “the aromatic profile and freshness of these wines is what makes them such a great match with Japanese cuisine.”
Historical Roots and Modern Production
THE GORGEOUS GREEN HILLS OF PIEDMONT WHERE MOSCATO BIANCO THRIVES. ALL PHOTOS BY LISA DENNING.
Asti's sparkling wine tradition runs deep. "Asti was the first sparkling wine produced in Italy," Pondini noted, dating back to 1865 when a producer returned from Champagne and created what was then called "Moscato champagne" using local grapes and traditional methods.
Today's production involves a unique approach: the must (unfermented grape juice) is nearly frozen before fermentation begins, allowing producers to control timing and maintain the wines' signature freshness.
"Everything that happens in the production of Asti is natural," Pondini emphasized. "We don't add sugar, we don't add CO2—everything comes from the grape."
Light on Alcohol, Big on Charm
Most Asti wines hover around 5% to 7% alcohol, making them some of the lightest options on the wine shelf. In a moment when many drinkers are moderating their intake of alcohol, it’s a beverage that keeps a good pace with a poolside picnic or rooftop happy hour. Especially in the summer, when hydration is crucial, Asti DOCG wines refresh without knocking you sideways.
The Sweet Wine Stigma
Yet the elephant in the room remains: sweetness. While these wines were undeniably delicious, they fall into a style category that's gone out of fashion with American consumers. Dry is king. Sweet, we're told, is for novices.
It's a bit strange, considering how often sweetness plays a significant role in beloved global cuisines. Think Thai chili sauces, Korean BBQ marinades, and Chinese honey-glazed pork. In those dishes, sugar is an essential flavor element. I think it’s time we start considering sweetness in wine in the same way, not as a flaw, but as a counterpoint to other components, such as acidity. What I’m suggesting is to give them a try from time to time—you might be pleasantly surprised! Advice I can follow, too!
Market Reality and Hidden Complexity
The numbers tell a surprising story. Of the 35 million bottles of Moscato d'Asti produced annually, approximately 25 million are exported to the United States, making it the largest market for this wine globally.
Even more intriguing is what happens when these wines age. Pondini brought two older vintages of Moscato d’Asti, 2013 and 2014, which indeed had, as Pondini noted, "lots of minerality and petrol notes, tasting similar to a complicated Riesling.”
The Dry Style Challenge
We also tasted drier styles, including the rare Metodo Classico and two dry Moscato d’Asti, which showed a crisp, structured side of Moscato that many are not familiar with. Unfortunately, they remain scarce in the United States. As Pondini explained, "The bigger producers haven't embraced the dry styles, so the small producers making them are mostly selling to the local market.”
Cocktail Potential
Another overlooked use for Asti wines, especially the sweeter styles, is in cocktails. Their natural aromatics, low alcohol, and residual sugar make them ideal substitutes for sweet vermouth or syrups in spritzes and aperitifs. They can be thought of as flavor enhancers that bring a floral, citrusy lift.
A Sweet Summer Reboot
With prices typically below $22, Asti DOCG wines offer incredible value. If you've been hesitant about them due to their high sugar content, consider giving them another try, especially this summer. Try them with spicy dishes, or pour them alongside sushi and grilled seafood. These effervescent, fruit-forward, low-alcohol gems remind us that deliciousness doesn't have to be difficult. Or dry. Sometimes, a little sweetness is exactly what the moment calls for.