Traveling through Chianti Rùfina: A Wine Lover's Journey

Planning a trip to Florence, Italy? Lucky you—this colorful city has it all: awe-inspiring Renaissance art, architecture, and historic monuments, breathtaking river and city views, and delectable food and wine.

Unsurprisingly, though, the city's charm attracts its fair share of crowds, and after a few days of the hustle and bustle, nothing is better than a quick escape to the countryside. Fortunately, Chianti wine country, only a quick 30-minute drive away, invites you to immerse yourself in its picturesque landscapes, tranquil vineyards, and hearty Tuscan cuisine.

Chianti Rùfina: The Hidden Jewel of Tuscany

Chianti Rùfina is the most historic of the seven subzones that fall under Italy's Chianti DOCG. Situated in the hills to the east of Florence, Rùfina enjoys a more continental climate and higher altitude compared to its fellow Chianti DOCG appellations. This unique environment results in Sangiovese-based wines characterized by good tannins and acidity, akin in style to the more well-known Chianti Classico wine, which comes from its own distinct DOCG appellation (not a part of the seven Chianti DOCGs).

Chianti Rùfina wines have been known since the Middle Ages for producing some of the region’s finest Tuscan red wines, and in modern times, these wines have been frequently sold at Florence's wine bars and trattorias.

While they are well-praised by wine critics, this gem of a wine appellation still awaits discovery by wine enthusiasts. Often, they are mistakenly grouped with generic, inexpensive Chianti wines from other, less distinguished areas of the region and, as a result, are not given a try by consumers looking for better quality.

Besides finely crafted wines, Rùfina is well-known for its hospitable agriturismo, Italian farms offering accommodations. Among the 25 wineries in the appellation, I had the pleasure of visiting I Veroni and Castello del Trebbio last June, two wineries renowned for exceptional wines and authentic agriturismo experiences—a delightful blend of winemaking and hospitality.

I Veroni: Where Tradition Meets Modern Excellence

Located amidst the rolling green hills near the picturesque village of Pontassieve, I Veroni is a certified organic estate founded upon centuries of winemaking expertise. The winery, housed in a 17th-century farmhouse, is now run by Lorenzo Mariani, the fourth generation.

The vineyards at I Veroni predominantly feature the Sangiovese grape variety, accentuated by other native grapes like Canaiolo, Colorino, and Trebbiano, and also with international varieties like Merlot and Petit Verdot.

What sets I Veroni apart is its unwavering dedication to crafting exceptional wines while offering a welcoming hospitality experience. Nine charming apartments beckon travelers to unwind and rejuvenate, with each offering panoramic countryside views. A large pool with chaise lounges and umbrellas are available for guests to enjoy in between other activities like wine tastings, leisurely walks through the vineyards and olive groves, and hands-on cooking classes.

I veroni’s pool. Photo: @i.veroni.

Learn more about a stay in I Veroni’s farmhouse apartments here.

And be sure to check out the following tasty wines from I Veroni, the first two considered their flagship wines:

  • I Domi Chianti Rufina DOCG. A delicious, bold blend of Sangiovese (90%), complemented by Colorino and Canaiolo (10%). Cherry, plum, tobacco, and leather notes.

  • Quona Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG. A robust yet elegant expression of Chianti Rùfina. 100% Sangiovese, with ripe black cherry, tobacco, and cedar notes.

  • Alba White IGT. Crisp and refreshing, a blend of Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Canaiolo, notes of citrus and tropical fruit.

  • Amelia Dry Rosé. Full-flavored, dry, with tasty notes of strawberry and raspberry. 100% Sangiovese.

  • Vin Santo Dessert Wine. A “grand finale” wine, deep amber-hued, notes of caramel, vanilla, apricot, and honey; try it with Tuscan delights like Torta della Nonna, a cake of ricotta cheese, pine nuts, vanilla bean, and lemon.

Castello del Trebbio: A Medieval Dream

Continue your Chianti Rùfina adventure by venturing to Castello del Trebbio, also in Pontassieve, an estate whose historic castle dates back to 1184, during the medieval times when the Pazzi family built it.

Within these very walls, the infamous "Pazzi Conspiracy" was hatched—a daring plot aimed at overthrowing the Medici family, Florence's most powerful clan. Driven by economic and political motives, and with the blessings of Pope Sixtus IV who had fallen out with the Medicis, the conspiracy reached its climax on April 26th, 1478. That day, Giuliano and his brother, Lorenzo de' Medici, were ambushed in Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral during mass. Tragically, Giuliano lost his life, while the wounded Lorenzo survived. This historical event ultimately sealed the Medici family's power and marked the Pazzi family's decline.

A warm welcome to the castle by the family’s dog, Lagrein.

Detail of the Castello (Castle in English).

Since 1968, the Baj Macario family has lovingly restored this architectural marvel, creating their home along with a distinguished winery, renowned restaurant, and charming agriturismo. The accomodations are freshly renovated and spacious, and there are three beautiful swimming pools for guests to enjoy.

The property is run by Anna Baj Macario and her winemaker husband, Stefano Casadei, who have preserved its historic legacy and elevated it to new heights of excellence and hospitality.

At Castello del Trebbio, whether you're an overnight guest or spending only an afternoon, you can delve into the castle's rich history, wander the property's scenic trails, engage in cooking classes, and enjoy wine tasting and cellar tours.

The estate's restaurant, La Sosta del Gusto, serves locally-inspired dishes like Tuscan tomato soup and homemade pasta with broad beans and Pecorino cheese, with the menu changing daily according to what’s freshest in the market. Moreover, for those seeking a truly romantic setting, Castello del Trebbio is also the perfect setting for a wedding.

Find out more about Castello del Trebbio’s hospitality here.

A healthy and delicious breakfast arrives at your doorstep at the time you choose!

Two of Castello del Trebbio’s most exceptional Rùfina DOCG wines, both awarded organic certification, are the Chianti Rufina Riserva, a rich blend of Sangiovese (90%), Merlot, and Syrah (10%), and the Chianti Rufina Riserva Lastricato, an intense, full-bodied 100% Sangiovese wine with dark cherry and blueberry fruit notes and a savory earthiness. Additionally, the winery produces a delightful array of whites, sparkling wines, and a fine sweet Vin Santo.

Where Winemaking Tradition and Welcoming People Converge

A visit to I Veroni and Castello del Trebbio opens the door to the exceptional wines and warm hospitality of Chianti Rùfina. Whether you're a seasoned wine enthusiast or an inquisitive traveler yearning to escape the city, you'll discover an authentic taste of Italy's heart and soul at these charming estates.