A Taste of Ireland: Eating, Drinking, Exploring
/When I booked a mother-daughter trip to Ireland, I envisioned stunning scenery, charming towns, and cozy afternoons spent in a pub with a pint of Guinness. We got all that and more. Three things surprised me most: the great touring weather (in the 70s and partly sunny most days), the delicious food, and the kind people.
When packing for Ireland, Don’t forget your umbrella! Luckily, we only had to use ours a few times. All Photos by Lisa Denning.
Our 10-day journey, during which my daughter, Jolie, chauffeured me around, started in the small town of Kenmare on the west coast, and we worked our way to Dingle, Adare, Galway, and Dublin, with two nights in each spot.
Jolie did an amazing job driving on the “other” side of the road and with the steering wheel on the right. She refused to let me drive, and I don’t blame her. (Side note: she had been a passenger in Australia when I was the driver, and she still has PTSD from that experience!) When we dropped the car off in Galway on our seventh day in Ireland, it had no scratches, even though it had veered into the left-side bushes a few times (no biggie!).
Spending two nights in each small Irish town, including Galway (a very small city), was the perfect amount of time, just enough to explore, relax, and try a few local bars and restaurants. The only place we could’ve spent longer was in Dublin, which has a lot going on (what a New Yorker considers a real city), with lots of sightseeing, shopping, and great restaurants and pubs.
Heading to Ireland? Here are our top picks for where to stay, eat, drink, and explore, based solely on where we went, from the southwest to the midwest and then Dublin on the east coast.
And here’s a shout-out to the Irish people we met along the way. They were some of the nicest, friendliest, most helpful people I’ve ever encountered while traveling.
KENMARE
Kenmare is a small town that’s perfect for moseying around for an afternoon or two. Colorful shops with friendly staff line the two main streets, and like all small Irish towns, it has more than one cozy pub to duck into for a drink.
We spent our first afternoon walking around town and browsing the cute shops, like Quill’s Woolen Market, Foley’s Irish Crafts, Kenmare Wine and Cards, and Kenmare Bookshop. We also stopped for our first tastes of Guinness in Ireland at Crowley’s Bar (super casual with a local crowd) and then at Foley’s, which was larger and a bit fancier (but still casual). I hadn’t drunk Guinness in years, but Jolie has, and she thought it tasted pretty much the same as it does in New York City!
Waiting for the nitrogen bubbles to settle.
Every town we visited had a cute little bookshop that stocked many books by Irish writers.
Where to Stay
Park Hotel Kenmare: This Victorian landmark, dating to 1897, sits just off Kenmare’s main street. The Relais & Châteaux property offers beautiful views over Kenmare Bay, gardens to stroll through, and an adjacent 18-hole golf course. Inside, you’ll find a stunning collection of modern artwork, and in the evening, live piano music fills the drawing room near the hotel’s charming bar with its menu of bespoke cocktails. The sitting rooms and terrace are also inviting spots to sit and have a drink. Don’t miss the pomegranate negroni, the best I’ve ever had!
Views from the Patio at Park Hotel.
Eat and Drink
Lime Tree: Housed in a cozy building dating back to 1832, the restaurant had friendly, professional service and delicious food. Don’t miss the salad of St Tola goat’s cheese.
No. 35: Set in an historic building in the center of Kenmare, our dinner here was excellent, thanks in part to the friendly, knowledgeable maître d’, Keith. Fish lovers must try the market fish of the day, which was super fresh hake the night we were there.
See and Do
Kenmare Bay Boat Tours: Take a cruise with local skipper Paddy, who has spent his life fishing the waters of Kenmare Bay and has plenty of tales to share about his catches and days at sea. All tours are pet- and family-friendly.
Kenmare Heritage Trail: This self-guided 40-minute walking route connects key historical sites of Kenmare, such as Cromwell’s Bridge, built in the 7th century by Franciscan monks. Start the walk at The Kenmare Heritage Centre.
Killarney National Park: Kenmare is a great base for exploring the surrounding area. We stopped at Moll’s Gap, Ladies View, Torc Waterfall, and Muckross House and Gardens. The scenery was spectacular, with winding roads, mountains, lakes, and plenty of places to stop and take it all in. (Tip: don’t eat the pre-prepared sandwiches at the Muckross Garden restaurant).
Views of Muckross Lake from Muckross House.
DINGLE
Dingle is a charming little seaside village, with colorful buildings, lively pubs, and plenty of shops, restaurants, and cafés packed into its compact center. It felt a bit more touristy than Kenmare, but we still loved our time here. The highlight was staying at Pax Guest House (see below), whose peaceful atmosphere and welcoming proprietor made us feel right at home.
No visit to Dingle is complete without a stop at the original Murphy’s for ice cream. The friendly staff greets you with a smile and, as you wait in line, scoops up whatever flavors you want to try so you can taste them before deciding.
Our favorites were Irish Brown Bread, Honeycomb Caramel, Chocolate Whiskey, and Dingle Gin.
Where to Stay
Pax Guest House: Pax Guest House speaks to your soul. The wonderful owner, John, along with his adorable dog Jules and the rest of the amazing staff, couldn’t have been more welcoming. The whole place brims with stunning artwork and cozy nooks; Jolie and I loved hanging out in the large family room or on the terrace, with its sweeping panoramas of Dingle Harbor, Dingle Bay, and the surrounding Atlantic coastline and mountains. Even better, the hotel is located a mere stone’s throw from the town of Dingle.
Eat & Drink
Solas Tapas: A fun spot for dinner, with a menu of delicious tapas-sized plates in a warm, cozy atmosphere. Try the chorizo and manchego croquettes and the scallop ceviche with apple, ginger, and mustard seed pickle.
The croquettes at Solas Tapas.
Out of the Blue: This colorful little restaurant across from the water has a wide selection of delicious seafood and a warm, friendly staff. The daily specials, including the just-caught seafood, are listed on a blackboard brought tableside.
The Dingle Pub: A pint of Guinness is even better with live Irish music, and when a five-time world champion is dancing right in front of you, it becomes an unforgettable night! Don’t miss the incredible show by Irish dancer David Geaney, who performs most nights around 10 p.m.
See and Do
Dingle Distillery: The tour and tasting were a fun way to sample the local spirits scene and learn how they make such excellent whiskey, gin, and vodka.
Old Irish Farmhouse: We got up close with the farm animals during the Hold a Baby Lamb experience and watched an entertaining sheepdog demonstration, a fun and very Irish way to experience the countryside.
Slea Head Drive: The scenic drive is a must, with spectacular coastal views around every turn. We stopped at the Ceann Sibeal viewing point and took a hike, the best way to experience the rugged landscape and dramatic coastline.
ADARE
Adare was a little different from our other stops because we were there primarily for a wedding at Adare Manor. We didn’t have much time to explore the town or the surrounding area, but we had plenty of time to enjoy the manor and its beautiful grounds. It turned into a fun, relaxing two days.
Where to Stay
Adare Manor: Our stay in Adare was all about this spectacular estate built in the 1800s. The original historic building has been beautifully restored, while a 2017 addition looks as though it has always been there. Despite the glamorous setting, it’s not stuffy at all, and the staff couldn’t have been friendlier.
There’s so much to do, too. I loved exploring the property’s beautiful grounds, both walking and on a complimentary bike. The Padel Club was a great place to work out, take a yoga class, or hang out by the infinity pool. The spa was also a lovely spot for an afternoon of pampering. The breakfast buffet and à la carte dishes, served in the beautiful dining room, were outstanding. Staying here is definitely a splurge, but for a special occasion, it’s quite the luxury Irish castle experience.
Eat and Drink
The Carriage House at Adare Manor: The halibut with fresh tomatoes was terrific, especially with a glass of rosé, and the service was attentive without being overbearing.
The Tack Room at Adare Manor: This cozy bar in the manor’s basement has an incredibly friendly staff and a great cocktail list; a fun spot to have a drink and a chat.
Bill Chawke’s Bar: This casual pub right in the center of Adare was the perfect spot for the wedding welcome party. It has indoor and outdoor seating, an open-air, covered beer garden in the back, and live music.
CLIFFS OF MOHER & MORAN’S
On our way from Adare to Galway, we stopped at the Cliffs of Moher, one of Ireland’s favorite sights, which towers over the rugged west Clare coastline. It’s a spectacular sight, even on the rainy, slightly foggy day we visited. The weather added some drama to the already breathtaking scenery, and we would’ve regretted skipping it just because the conditions weren’t perfect.
Afterward, we stopped for lunch at Moran’s Oyster Cottage in Weir Village (part of Galway County), and it turned out to be one of the trip's highlights. We slurped down a dozen locally farmed oysters and savored light and crispy fish and chips. As I posted on Instagram (@nycrestaurants), “the best in the world!” No exaggeration either.
GALWAY
Galway is a very walkable city, with its main tourist area centered around one long, lively street (whose name changes from Quay Street to Shop Street) lined with shops, pubs, and restaurants. It was definitely more touristy than the other places we visited, and we didn’t love it quite as much as Kenmare or Dingle. That said, I had heard a lot of people really enjoy Galway, and we did enjoy two very good dinners, plus exploring areas beyond the main street.
Saint Nicholas Church in Galway
Eat and Drink
The Universal Bar: This cozy, relaxed spot seemed less touristy than some of the restaurants along Galway’s main drag. Our dishes were very good, and I really enjoyed my glass of light, chillable red wine.
Rúibín: Overlooking the city’s historic docklands, this restaurant is known for its delicious seafood and warm atmosphere. I wouldn’t order the tomato salad, though, as it wasn’t anything special, but the fish with roasted tomatoes was outstanding.
Sheridans Cheesemongers Wine Bar & Wine Shop: Stopping here for wine and cheese was a perfect break from sightseeing and a chance to sample some Irish cheeses with a glass of wine.
The Quays Bar & Restaurant: A great spot in Galway’s vibrant Latin Quarter to listen to traditional Irish music and, of course, have a Guinness.
See and Do
Celia Griffin Memorial Park, Salthill District: The park honors the memory of Celia Griffin, a young girl who perished during the Great Famine (1845-1852), with a limestone monument and two sandstone monuments shaped like ship sails. Despite its somber history, it’s a beautiful, peaceful spot with stunning views over Galway Bay.
The famine memorial in celia Griffin Memorial Park is dedicated to the captains and crews who carried many thousands of victims of the Great Famine to safety from 1847 to 1853, and bears the names of 100 ships.
Galway Atlantaquaria, Salthill District: Ireland’s largest native-species aquarium, with fish feeding sessions multiple times a day and informative talks by staff about native Irish marine life.
University of Galway: The campus sits along the fast-flowing River Corrib, with peaceful, flat walking trails just a 10-minute walk from the heart of Galway city center.
Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop: A well-loved, independent bookshop in the heart of Galway City, spanning six rooms across multiple levels. You’ll find over 100,000 new, secondhand, bargain, and antiquarian books, including an extensive selection of Irish books.
DUBLIN
Our last stop was the country’s capital city. We dropped off our rental car in Galway and went by train, which took about two and a half hours—a much easier way to get there after all that driving. I love Dublin. It’s not too big, not too small, and has plenty to see and do without being overwhelming, and you can eat really well there.
Where to Stay
The Merrion: We stayed at this historic five-star splurge hotel, where we had a delicious lunch in The Garden Room, a tranquil spot overlooking formal gardens. Here, I discovered the Irish 99, or “whippy cone” here—a soft-serve ice cream cone topped with a Cadbury chocolate flake.
See and Do
Trinity College: A highlight of our trip was touring this prestigious university. Our guide was a student who was a total nerd about the place and entertained us with all sorts of crazy stories from the past. We walked through the impressive long room of the old library, and at the end of the tour, we saw the ancient manuscript, the Book of Kells, up close in a specialized display case where two pages are turned every day.
Gaia, a 22-foot illuminated sculpture by British artist Luke Jerram, hangs inside Trinity College Dublin’s Long Room. It features high-resolution NASA imagery of Earth, giving visitors a view of our planet from space.
Guinness Storehouse: A visit to the historic Guinness Storehouse is a must. We took the tour, learned how to properly pour a Guinness, and finished with a drink in the party-like atmosphere of the in-the-round Gravity Bar, with floor-to-ceiling windows offering some of Dublin's best views. We were there on the day of the solar eclipse, and luckily, someone gave us a pair of eclipse glasses to view it. It was the perfect way to end a trip that had included plenty of Guinness along the way.
14 Henrietta Street: Another must-do is 14 Henrietta Street, a fascinating historical site that tells Dublin's story of Irish wealth and poverty through one house and the people who lived there. It gives a very different perspective on the city than most sightseeing stops would.
Eat and Drink
Variety Jones: Our dinner at Variety Jones was the best dinner of the entire trip. We had a tasting menu of creative, highly flavorful dishes, paired with a great wine list. The whole experience was a wonderful way to end our 10 days of eating and drinking our way through Ireland.
Library Street: We really enjoyed our dinner at Library Street, with the standout dish being gnocchi in a pea sauce.
Fish Shop: We stopped at this small, cute spot for lunch and had excellent oysters and locally caught, beer-battered fish. I love discovering places like this: casual and warm, with food and wine from small, artisan producers.
Our mother-daughter trip to Ireland was a success! I hope you get the chance to spend some time in this beautiful country, with its fantastic food and drink and some of the nicest people you’ll ever meet.
