From Mole to Merlot: A Mexican Food and Wine Adventure at La Contenta Oeste

When people think of Mexican drinks, tequila, mezcal, and beer usually top the list. However, Mexico is also home to a centuries-old winemaking tradition that’s on the up-and-up, led by small, quality-driven producers across the country in regions like Valle de Guadalupe, Coahuila, and Querétaro.

North America’s wine story began in the 1500s with the arrival of the Spanish, who planted vines in Mexico shortly after arriving in the New World. However, in 1699, the Spanish Crown halted Mexico’s commercial wine production to protect Spain’s domestic wine industry. The only wineries that survived were those supplying wine to the Church.

Today, a new generation of winemakers is putting Mexican terroir on the global wine map.

At La Contenta Oeste in Manhattan’s West Village, Chef Mota is one of the few restaurateurs in the U.S. who has curated a 100% Mexican wine list. On a recent visit to this lively spot, my daughter, Jolie, and I tried some of Chef Mota’s favorite food-and-wine pairings, all of which were delicious. Let’s dig back in!

La Contenta Nachos + Vinos Pijoan Árbol de Fuego Rosato 2021 (Valle de Guadalupe)

This sophisticated take on nachos, with three cheeses: pepper jack, Oaxaca, and cheddar, was lifted by the refreshing salinity of the Vinos Pijoan rosato. Subtle raspberry flavors, vibrant acidity, and a dry finish made it a great match for the creamy, spicy bite of the dish. A lovely, coastal-feeling rosé with character.

Fish Tacos + Monte Xanic Chenin Blanc 2022 (Valle de Guadalupe)

Delicate tempura codfish with creamy avocado sauce, cole slaw, and chipotle aioli was paired with this round and creamy Chenin Blanc. The wine had a tropical nose, a juicy mid-palate, and just a touch of honey on the finish. Its bright acidity helped cut through the richness of the fried fish and kept things feeling fresh with every bite.

Tacos de Birria + RGMX Scielo Tinto (Valle de Parras)

Tender beef birria tacos topped with chile de árbol salsa, cilantro, and onion, met their match in this juicy red. Made in the high-elevation desert of Coahuila, the Scielo Tinto—a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot—had just the right balance of fruit and structure. It left us wanting another bite and another sip.

Chicken en Mole Poblano + Valle Seco Vino de mi Prima Vera (Baja California)

This is Chef Mota’s favorite pairing, and after tasting it, I can see why. The 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine from Valle Seco is bright and lively, with a hint of smokiness that mirrors the complex flavors of the mole poblano. Not heavy or overly tannic, the wine brought lift and focus to the dish’s earthy, spicy notes while the dish enhanced the flavors of the wine.

Chef Luis Mota. All photos by Lisa Denning

Tres Leches Fig Cake + El Bajío Sparkling Brut Rosé (Querétaro)

A sweet tres leches fig cake topped with vanilla ice cream met its match in this Sparkling Rosé, whose raspberry and strawberry notes felt like a fresh berry garnish—clean, crisp, and celebratory.

La Contenta Oeste’s all-Mexican wine list is a rare find in New York City, and a flavorful invitation to look beyond the expected. Whether you’re new to Mexican wine or already a fan, this meal proved just how expressive and food-friendly these wines can be.