La Genisia: Pinot Noir at the Heart of Oltrepò Pavese
/It’s time to discover yet another amazing Italian wine region! This one is in northern Italy, and it’s called Oltrepò Pavese. It’s Europe’s fourth-largest Pinot Noir-producing region, yet most wine drinkers would never think to look to Italy for this famously French grape.
La Genisia is an Oltrepò Pavese cooperative that wants to change that. Founded in 2020 by the Torrevilla Group, the winery works with about 20 growers and specializes in traditional-method sparkling wines, which make up only a small percentage of Oltrepò Pavese’s production. Most local wines are still reds, whites, and rosés, along with Charmat-method sparkling and frizzante wines.
Vineyard shot courtesy of @torrevilla_vini
Pinot Noir has a long history in Oltrepò Pavese, where the first vines arrived from Champagne, France, in the 19th century. The region’s rolling hills, good air circulation, and warm days followed by cooler nights help the grapes retain the acidity and freshness that make them so well suited to the area.
One recent development is the Classese designation, which gives Oltrepò Pavese’s traditional-method sparkling wines a distinct identity. The name combines classico and Pavese, connecting the region’s sparkling-wine tradition to its territory. To qualify, wines must come from hand-harvested grapes grown on hillsides, contain at least 85% Pinot Noir, and age on the lees for at least 24 months. Vintage wines require at least 36 months of lees aging, and reserve wines 48 months.
A key part of La Genisia’s approach is understanding each vineyard site. Working with the University of Milan and a Champagne consultant, the winery studies each site's soils, microclimates, and growing conditions and creates an “identity card” for every vineyard parcel. This helps the team figure out what makes each site unique and make better decisions about vine care.
La Genisia also looks beyond the bottle to help more people discover the area. The winery organizes e-bike tours, horseback rides, vineyard walks, and children's activities, while connecting visitors with local wineries, restaurants, and accommodations. For La Genisia, the aim is to help wine lovers recognize what this corner of Lombardy offers and to give its traditional-method sparkling wines the attention they deserve.
Wines Tasted
During a Zoom presentation with winemaker Simone Fiori, I tasted La Genisia's wines and was impressed by their freshness, lively acidity, and long finish. These versatile wines would be a perfect aperitivo kickoff or pair well with an entire meal. The winery also produces a still Pinot Noir aged without oak that delivers fresh fruit flavors and pairs easily with all kinds of food. These wines are elegant, refined, and beautifully balanced in every way.
La Genisia Pinot Nero Brut NV
100% Pinot Noir produced in the traditional method. Fresh and lively, with aromas of citrus, white flowers, honey, and toasted bread. Fine, persistent bubbles lead to a balanced palate with bright acidity and a rounded texture. (Average retail price: $27)
La Genisia Pinot Nero Extra Brut NV
100% Pinot Noir produced in the traditional method. Crisp and mineral-driven, with grapefruit, green apple, white flowers, and hints of bread crust. Fresh acidity and a savory, saline edge carry through to a long, clean finish. Both the Brut and Extra Brut are dry wines, but the Extra Brut is slightly drier. ($27)
2025 La Genisia Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese
I loved this wine for its delicate, fresh character, with notes of red and black cherry, plum, and blackberry, layered with baking spices and dried flowers and herbs. Juicy fruit, lively acidity, and fine tannins make this Pinot Noir so food-friendly. Served at a family dinner, it was gone by the time we finished the tomato-and-garlic bruschetta appetizer! ($23)
