País Is Back: 5 Things to Know and 6 Wines to Try

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One of my greatest pleasures is introducing friends to wines they didn’t know they were missing, especially when I think they’re going to love them. Liza, one of my more adventurous pals, is always game for my suggestions. Most recently, we spent an entire dinner at Txikito, a Basque spot in Chelsea, drinking dry Sherry—her first time tasting what I believe is one of the world’s greatest food wines. And she did indeed fall for her Amontillado that night.

The time before that, we were at Nuyores in the West Village, where, after a round of well-made Pisco Sours, I asked the server for a glass of País. Unsurprisingly, Liza’s interest was piqued, and she asked me for a taste. One sip of Roberto Henríquez País Franco and she lit up. Lots of oohing and aahing. And the wine even surprised me a little bit. The translucent ruby-red color was striking in the glass, followed by a burst of fragrant aromas, and then it showed an unexpected level of refinement and flavor on the palate. Most versions I’ve had have veered more rustic (though still delicious), but this was something else entirely.

If País isn’t a grape you know well, you’re not alone. Long associated with simple, unmemorable wines in Chile, it spent decades overshadowed by more fashionable international varieties. But that’s changing. Today, thanks to a new generation of thoughtful producers and a growing market for fresher, lighter reds, this delightful red wine is finally getting the recognition it deserves.

Five Things to Know About País

1. It’s One of the Oldest Grapes in the Americas

Brought to the Americas by Spanish missionaries in the 16th century, País became the first widely planted European grape in places like Chile and Argentina, helping establish wine culture across the continent.

2. It Goes by Different Names Around the World

País is part of a grape family that traveled widely with the Spanish empire. It’s known as Criolla Chica in Argentina, Mission in North America, and Listán Negro in Spain’s Canary Islands. Same grape, different identities, and each shaped by where it landed. Today, some of the most compelling examples come not just from Chile, but also from old bush vines in the Canaries, where Listán Negro has developed its own distinct personality.

3. It’s Not the Chilean Red You Expect

Forget heavy, oaky reds. País is typically light-bodied, bright, and fruit-driven, with red berry notes, a touch of earth, and often a slightly rustic edge. It’s low in tannin, naturally high in acidity, and usually sits around 12–13% ABV—well below many fuller-bodied reds, making it incredibly drinkable. It drinks more like Gamay or Pinot Noir than Cabernet, and a slight chill only makes it better.

4. Out of Favor, Now it’s Back

For centuries, País was everywhere in Chile. But as varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère took over, it lost its cachet and became associated with bulk wine. Now, with drinkers leaning toward lighter, more refreshing reds, it’s making a well-deserved comeback.

5. A New Generation of Producers Is Rewriting País

What’s driving the revival is a new mindset. Today’s best producers are treating País with care: earlier picking, gentle extraction, and little to no oak, all in pursuit of freshness and balance.

Six Wines to Know About

  • Louis-Antoine Luyt El Mismo País – One of the earliest champions of País, helping reframe the grape as something worth taking seriously. This wine is fresh and light-bodied, with earthy and fruity notes, and is perfect with a picnic salad spread. ($22)

  • Garage Wine Co. País 215 BC Ferment 2022 – Small-lot, dry-farmed wines from Maule that show depth and structure. This one offers loads of ripe fruit flavors and round tannins, without rusticity. This is País grown on granitic rock in a coastal, mountainous area. ($21)

  • Miguel Torres Chile, La Causa País 2022 & Estelado Brut Rosé – A major player in País’s revival, through its own bottlings as well as projects like La Causa, which work with old-vine material in Itata. La Causa País is fragrant, light-bodied, and juicy with soft, rustic tannins. The sparkling País rosé shows the grape’s versatility with lively bubbles and hints of fresh red berries and citrus. ($25 & $23)

  • Roberto Henríquez País Franco 2022 – Roberto Henríquez is one of the most compelling voices in Itata today; his País Franco (the one Liza and I fell in love with!) hails from old, ungrafted vines, and is vivid, textured, and complex. ($27)

  • Pedro Parra Vinista País 2023 – Legendary winemaker Pedro Parra’s work, less about volume, more about place, champions the importance of soil, old vines, and site expression in varieties like País. The Wine Advocate calls this wine “Outstanding. It's the finest Vinista to date.” ($24)

These aren’t rustic bulk wines anymore. They’re thoughtful, site-driven expressions of a grape that’s finally being taken seriously again. These wines are an excellent value for what’s in the glass—perfect for adventurous tasters like Liza, but really anyone curious enough to try something new.

Is that you?!