Six Finger Lakes Wines That Deserve a Spot on Your Table

The Finger Lakes hasn't always had an easy time making wine. For decades, ripening was never a sure thing. Cool temperatures and short growing seasons kept native varieties in play and also drove the planting of hybrids, both prized for their resilience and reliable ripening. However, not everyone was convinced that these grapes were the only path forward.

Dr. Konstantin Frank was among the first to make the case for Vitis vinifera in the Finger Lakes. A Ukrainian-born viticulturist who arrived in the region in the 1950s, Frank had spent years growing European varieties in climates just as unforgiving, and he believed the same was possible here, provided the vines were grafted onto the right rootstocks. He founded his winery on Keuka Lake in 1962, and the wines he produced helped shift growers' beliefs about what the region could do. Riesling in particular took hold, and today it remains the variety most closely associated with the Finger Lakes.

Warmer, longer growing seasons have made ripening more consistent, allowing producers to grow a broader range of vinifera and hybrids, both white and red. But that shift comes with its own pressures. Preserving acidity, once a given, is no longer guaranteed, and measures such as earlier picking and avoiding malolactic fermentation have become essential tools for maintaining freshness and balance. Additionally, increasingly erratic weather patterns—from spring frosts to heavy rains—require a different kind of vigilance in the vineyard, including delayed pruning and frost protection, careful canopy management, and earlier harvesting decisions.

Recently, I had the chance to taste through samples of Finger Lakes wines that together make a strong case for where the region stands right now, from a classic dry Riesling to wines made from hybrids, a lightly sparkling piquette, and a Bordeaux blend. Five of the six wineries are located on beautiful Seneca Lake, with the exception being Dr. Konstantin Frank on nearby Keuka Lake.

If you haven’t had wines from the Finger Lakes yet, I urge you to seek out these elegant, cool-climate wines. And I’m not being biased because they’re produced in my home state. They’re really that good!

Recommended Wines

Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling 2021. Subtle petrol on the nose gives way to lime, white peach, and tropical fruit on the palate, with a creamy edge and slate minerality. The acidity is laser-sharp, the finish long and fresh. Mouthwatering and lively, this is a quintessential Finger Lakes Riesling. ($35)

All photos by Lisa Denning.

Lakewood Vineyards Vignoles 2024. Vignoles is a cold-hardy white hybrid grape grown extensively across the Midwest and the Finger Lakes. A high-acid, aromatic variety, it can be produced in styles ranging from bone-dry to sweet. This version is semi-sweet, leading with stone fruit and floral notes, its residual sugar perfectly balanced by bright natural acidity. It feels lively rather than heavy, and it was a great match with chicken curry. ($12)

Fox Run Vineyards Traminette Simmons Vineyard 2023. Traminette is a hybrid grape developed by Cornell University’s breeding program in the 1960s and ’70s. Combining high quality with resistance to disease and cold, it has become a favorite in the Finger Lakes. Like its parent Gewürztraminer, it offers lychee, apricot, honey, and crisp citrus notes, with styles ranging from dry to sweet. Fox Run’s version is off-dry—slightly sweet yet fresh enough to drink with savory foods. One way to describe this wine (in a way that everyone can understand) is yummy! It was heavenly as an appetizer, served with blue cheese-stuffed dates. ($15)

Fox Run Vineyards Piquette 2024, Piquette is crafted by rehydrating grape pressings with juice and water, resulting in a naturally sparkling, low-alcohol beverage. This one, made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Vidal Blanc, is light, textural, and bone-dry, with a low 6.3% alc./vol. It reminded me of beer or kombucha, with its slightly yeasty, doughy note. Drink it young and without too much ceremony. Pairs well with sushi. ($20)

The label is a dedication to the family’s beloved Siberian husky, Shilo, who loved the snowy winters in the finger lakes.

Damiani Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc 2024. This elegant red wine is a great example of how Cabernet Franc has found its footing in the Finger Lakes. Herbal and dark-fruited, with peppery notes and bright acidity, it's incredibly food-friendly, equally at home with roasted lamb, tomato-based sauces, or with a bowl of savory mushroom soup sprinkled with goat cheese. ($28)

Dr. Konstantin Frank Lena Reserve Red 2022. This enticing blend includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with smaller amounts of Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Blaufrankisch. Tangy and mineral, with cherry fruit and dusty, medium tannins, it’s a complex, structured, and layered. Inspired by Helena ("Lena") Frank (Dr. Konstantin Frank’s youngest daughter), this wine shows the best of the winery’s reds, balancing power with elegance. ($60)

Learn more about this fascinating wine region at fingerlakeswinecountry.com.