Portuguese Wines: A Journey Through Six Courses
/Portuguese wines are experiencing a well-deserved moment in the spotlight. Over the past few weeks, I’ve tasted many types and have been very impressed by the quality, value, and stylistic variety. From dry, crisp whites to full-bodied styles, and from light, unoaked reds to structured, oak-aged versions, there are types to please every palate. And even though sweet wines aren’t exactly trendy these days, the Ports I tasted were fantastic, and surprisingly versatile, working just as well with savory dishes as they do with desserts.
With 250+ indigenous grape varieties and varied terroir, from cooler granite slopes in the north to sun-drenched plains in the south, Portugal offers high-quality wines that can complement virtually any dish, from delicate seafood to rich meats and decadent desserts.
Recently, I attended an amazing event led by Jienna Basaldu, a sommelier at The Modern, who curated a terrific selection of twelve Portuguese wines to accompany a six-course tasting of Portuguese dishes. The food was prepared by Nuno Sousa, Owner and Executive Chef (Extraordinaire!) of Leitao at 547 Hudson Street in New York’s West Village.
Course 1: Shrimp with Lobster Sauce
Aveleda Parcela do Convento Loureiro 2023 from Vinho Verde ($33). From Portugal’s northern reaches, where cooler climate and granite soils make for crisp, chiseled wines. The electric acidity cut through the richness of the shrimp dish, creating a lively pairing. This was one of my favorite white wines of the tasting.
Aldeia de Cima Reserva Branco 2021 from Alentejo ($32). A blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro, with a slightly more tropical profile with texture, yet also with great freshness and zesty acidity. Jienna called Antão Vaz “the queen of Alentejo whites,” explaining that it loves warm climates and handles oak with grace. The wine’s generous texture was a perfect match for the dish, complementing its rich flavor without being too heavy.
Course 2: Littleneck Clams with Chorizo in White Wine Broth
Sidónio de Sousa Special Cuvée Rosé 2022 from Bairrada ($25). Made from 100% Baga using the traditional method with 24 months on the lees, this sparkling wine is a Brut Nature, meaning completely dry. Jienna explained that Baga is similar to but fuller-bodied than Pinot Noir with "a kind of wild, earthy energy." At this price, it’s a remarkable value for such craftsmanship.
Taboadella 1255 Encruzado Branco 2024 from Dão ($22). Named for the year 1255, when winemaking was first documented on the property, this unoaked white is fermented 80% in stainless steel and 20% in cement. The Encruzado grape was once nearly extinct, but today it thrives in the Dão's granitic soils, producing a mineral-driven wine with a round and creamy body.
The sparkling rosé's red fruit echoed the tomato and chorizo, while the Encruzado's brightness heightened the clam dish’s nuances. Both wines were great choices!
Course 3: Pork with Fava Bean Purée
Quinta da Lixa Alvarinho 2024 from Vinho Verde. ($20). This wine is a great value and very food-friendly, with its mineral salinity and lime and green apple notes. Its textural mouthfeel made it a good counterpoint to the earthy richness of the pork dish, but the wine’s delicate fruit was slightly overwhelmed by the dish’s flavors.
Mateus Nicolau de Almeida Mater-Dôme Tinto 2009 from Douro ($35). Aged 13 years in concrete, this wine offers complex and herbal notes of forest and red fruits such as cherry and strawberries. A perfect medium-bodied red for the pork dish. In this pairing, this red was my preferred choice.
Course 4: Francesinha Sandwich in Broth
The Francesinha is Portugal's answer to the croque-monsieur, but, as Jienna said, “dialed up ten." It demanded substantial, yet elegant wines, like the white Niepoort and the red Prats & Symington, two favorites of the tasting.
Niepoort Vinhas Velhas Bical–Maria Gomes white wine from Bairrada ($45). Made from 80+-year-old vines and aged in old oak and concrete, this wine is crisp and lively, offering savory depth and subtle smoky notes that complemented the sandwich's umami elements. It went really well with the dish.
Prats & Symington Post Scriptum de Chryseia 2022 from Douro DOC ($30). This modern Douro red offers blueberry notes with savory restraint, proving elegant rather than over-extracted. Its balanced structure complemented the rich broth, cheese, and various meats in this iconic Portuguese sandwich. This red also went beautifully with the sandwich.
Course 5: Duck with Serra da Estrela Sheep’s Milk Cheese
Quinta Nova Blanc de Noir Reserva from ($26). This 100% Baga is a white wine made from red grapes and aged 12 months in new French oak. The cranberry and peach fruity notes were a great match with the smoky richness of this dish.
João Portugal Ramos Vinha de S. Lázaro 2021 ($40). This is a 100% Touriga Nacional from a single vineyard and is aged in French oak. Only 6,000 bottles were produced. Dry and savory, with low tannins, it was delicious with the duck and cheese.
Course 6: Port-Macerated Pear with Mascarpone
Jienna ended with a spectacular Port wine finale!
1966 Kopke Tawny Port ($250+) From one of the best vintages of that decade, this nearly 60-year-old wine showed remarkable vitality with notes of caramel, black walnuts, burnt orange peel, and cream soda. What a special treat!
Blackett 30-Year-Old Tawny Port ($120) The wine’s silky texture, deep amber hue, and notes of dried figs and caramelized nuts mirrored the dessert’s richness, with the mascarpone adding a cool, creamy contrast.
This terrific tasting showed how Portuguese wines are breaking boundaries. Reds aren't only for meat, whites aren't just for fish, and Port wine is heavenly no matter what.
Give these wines a try!
