Sipping Your Way Through December—Day 3

Here’s the third installment of The Wine Chef’s December “Advent Calendar” wine series.

Donnafugata Lighea Zibibbo 2024

The label couldn’t be more perfect, making me long to be swimming in the clear blue sea off Pantelleria.

I’m especially excited about sharing today’s bottle with you. It’s a white wine made from Zibibbo, a grape you may (or may not) know.

Also called Moscato di Alexandria, it belongs to the small family of aromatic varieties, those naturally perfumed grapes whose exhilarating fragrance greets you long before the first sip. Only a handful of other grapes fall into this category, including Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.

This ancient grape was introduced to Sicily by the Arabs thousands of years ago. Its name, “Zibibbo,” comes from the Arabic word for raisin, z'bib, a nod to the long tradition of drying the grapes for eating or for producing sweet wines.

Today’s bottle comes from Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s most respected wineries. Their Lighea Zibibbo comes from the volcanic island of Pantelleria, just off Sicily’s southwest coast, a place defined by relentless sun, powerful winds, and dramatic black lava soils. These elements give the wine its vivid, floral, fruity aromatics and bright acidity. The flavors you’ll find in the glass include pineapple, melon, apricot, and flowers.

However, one thing you won’t find in the glass is sweetness. What I love about this Zibibbo is how dry it is, yet every sip brings to mind the ripe fruit and the sweet scent of flowers in full bloom. Sounds like a perfect holiday pour, right?

I’ve been enjoying a glass over the past few nights, pairing it with everything from simple snacks like popcorn, nuts, and hummus, to an arugula salad with mango and apples, and sautéed chicken breasts with lemon, capers, and garlic. It thrives alongside dishes that are fresh, light, and vibrant. (I’d reach for something else with rich braised meats.)

If you haven’t explored dry Zibibbo yet, the Lighea is a beautiful place to begin, especially if you love the smell and taste of ripe fruit in summer.

Zibibbo also shines in sweet wines, especially Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé, a passito-style wine made from dried grapes. This luscious dessert wine from Pantelleria is a longtime favorite of mine, pairing beautifully with blue cheese, mango sorbet, or a chocolate tart.

Find the wines on wine-searcher.com: Lighea (about $29) and Ben Ryé (about $50 for a 375ml half bottle)