Soalheiro: Leading the Way in Alvarinho Winemaking

You’ve probably heard of the Spanish white wine Albariño, but what about its Portuguese counterpart, Alvarinho? These two Iberian white wines are made from the same grape variety, and unsurprisingly, they share many similarities: both are crisp, fragrant, mineral-driven whites, a match made in heaven with seafood.

ALVARINHO GRAPES.

Alvarinho is produced in Portugal's Vinho Verde region, which derives its name (green wine) from the verdant scenery. Situated just south of the border with Spain, it’s the largest wine DOC in Portugal, made up of nine subregions: Monção e Melgaço, Lima, Basto, Cávado, Ave, Amarante, Baião, Sousa, and Paiva.

While most Vinho Verde Alvarinho wines are light-bodied, slightly sparkling, and fragrant with lime, grapefruit, lemon, and melon notes, the Monção e Melgaço Alvarhino stands out for its unique qualities. These wines are more flavorful, fuller-bodied, slightly higher in alcohol, and have the capability to age. This distinction is attributed to the region's climate—a warmer, sunnier blend of maritime and continental—making it the only subregion not directly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean.

Soalheiro Winery

The winery's name, "Soalheiro," translates to "sunny place," a nod to its south-facing slopes. The winery, founded in 1982 by João António Cerdeira and still owned by the family, is among the most esteemed in Vinho Verde.

Map courtesy of Wine Folly.

Situated in the Melgaço and Monção sub-region, 50 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, Soalheiro’s vineyards are protected by mountains against harsh oceanic rain and winds. The climate has an ideal balance of rainfall, temperature, and sunlight hours crucial for ripening the grapes. During the growing season, the days are hot, and the nights are cold—just what grapes need to maintain the right balance of sugar and acidity.

Specialists and Innovators

The winery produces an incredible diversity of wines that can stand among the world’s most versatile. Soalheiro, an Alvarinho specialist, offers many styles, from single-varietal to blends and limited editions, some of which are quite innovative for the region.

The diverse portfolio includes its flagship, Soalheiro Alvarinho, a classic, fresh, and lively expression; ALLO, a wine that blends Alvarinho with the local grape Loureiro; Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas, from the estate's oldest vines; Soalheiro Granit, from a specific selection of small vineyards planted on granite at higher altitudes; and Soalheiro Espumante and Soalheiro Pet Nat, two sparkling Alvarinho wines.

Environmental and Cultural Sustainability

The company protects the environment by reducing water usage, energy consumption, and carbon emissions. Since 2020, they have used lighter-weight, eco-efficient bottles and cardboard boxes.

Regarding cultural sustainability, the Cerdeira family has created a “Club of Producers,” 180 families that sell grapes grown on their properties to the winery. Most club members work day jobs in other professions, and being a member helps them earn extra money while ensuring the sustainability of their vineyards and the larger winemaking community.

Visit the Winery

If you’re planning a trip to Portugal, Soalheiro welcomes visitors with terrific experiences, including wine, gastronomy, and a new endeavor, herbal tea. To find out more, visit Soalheiro’s website or email enoturismo@soalheiro.com.

The Takeaway

Soalheiro Alvarinho is the kind of wine you’ll remember long after the bottle is empty: fresh, lively, and delightfully food-friendly.

During a press tasting and lunch with owner António Luís Cerdeira, I tasted an impressive array of Soalheiro wines, some aged over a decade. The wines, ranging in hue from pale yellow to intense, near-golden, prove that Alvarinho can stand the test of time, developing complexity, thanks to the balance of sugar, acid, and complex flavors.

Following are brief tasting notes. The wines can be found on wine-searcher.com.

Soalheiro Allo Loureiro Alvarinho 2023. 70% Loureiro, 30% Alvarinho. Lovely—fruity and aromatic with great mineral salinity and acidity; a long finish with a hint of pleasing bitterness. Fresh and vibrant, pair with sushi, ceviche, and other seafood.

Soalheiro Alvarinho Clássico 2023. 100% Alvarinho. Fragrant and flavorful, round, mouth-filling texture with a long finish. As its name indicates, this is a classic version of Alvarinho from Monção and Melgaço.

Soalheiro Granit Alvarinho 2023. 100% Alvarinho. Less aromatic than the previous two, but still fragrant and driven by mineral salinity; precise and palate-cleansing.

Soalheiro Primeras Vinhas Alvarinho 2022. 100% Alvarinho. A more powerful style, round and structured on the palate. Delicious with seafood, chicken, and pork dishes.

Soalheiro Alvarinho Clássico 2012. 100% Alvarinho. Reminiscent of Riesling, with hints of petrol notes. 12 years old and the acidity is still very present, but with a rounder texture and notes of honey. Slight bitterness on the finish adds to the balance.

Soalheiro Granit Alvarinho 2015. 100% Alvarinho. Subtle petrol aromas with a honeyed, long finish. Pairs well with cheese.

Soalheiro Primeras Vinhas Alvarinho 2012. 100% Alvarinho. I got a whiff of pickles on this one! But in a good way. This is a delicious, well-made wine; soft on the palate with a very long finish (again, with a subtle pickle note!)

Soalheiro Pet Nat Alvarinho. 100% Alvarinho. Wow! Love the nose: a bit earthy, with cider or beer notes. Very long finish. This sparkling wine is a great summertime sipper.