There’s a saying that great wine is made in the vineyards, meaning that the conditions under which vines grow determine a wine's quality much more than what occurs in the cellar.

While the phrase has become a cliché, its core principle remains true: you can’t make good wine from bad grapes.

Many factors contribute to what ends up in the bottle: soil, sunlight, slope, rainfall, elevation, wind, temperature, and the people working the land and making the wine. Soil is considered a big part of the equation, as it plays a vital role in the grape’s development. A vine’s roots absorb water and nutrients from the soil, providing sustenance to the grapes. The result—what ends up in a bottle of wine—directly reflects this process.

**A Vineyard in Bourgogne, France.** *All photos by Lisa Denning.*

In Bourgogne,* winemaking has long been driven by its terroir, dating back to the Middle Ages when Cistercian monks recognized that the wine's character would vary depending on the precise location of the vines. This discovery set the framework for the modern-day appellation system.

Bourgogne’s marine marl, clay, and limestone soils, dating back to the Jurassic era, have created ideal conditions for growing high-quality wine grapes, particularly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Bourgogne wine producers often attribute their wines' finesse and aromatic nuances to the limestone found throughout the region.

Industrial Age Woes

Unfortunately, modern farming methods, which use synthetic chemicals, have disrupted the natural character and vitality of soils worldwide, threatening the health of our global ecosystem. Vines that grow in chemically treated soils lose their ability to fully express terroir, leaving us with cookie-cutter wines without a sense of place.

Regrettably, like the rest of the wine world, Bourgogne succumbed to the popularity of chemical farming in the mid-20th century, and today, only about 10% of its vineyard land is farmed organically. However, change is on the horizon—even if slow-going—and the next generation of vignerons increasingly aims to protect and preserve the soils by eliminating synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.

During a visit to the region sponsored by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), I visited several young wine producers at small, family-owned wineries who are gradually taking over their family’s business. As we walked through the vineyards together, I saw firsthand how many of these winegrowers are revitalizing the health of their soils.

The organically farmed soils were fluffy and moist, with grass growing between the vines. Looking closely, I could see earthworms and signs of plant life in the dirt. Conversely, conventionally farmed soils are hard and compacted, devoid of vegetation between the rows of vines.

Generational Challenges

However, it’s not easy to make changes. Many next-generation wine producers face difficulties of persuading their parents that organic farming is the way to go. The previous generation, many still involved in vineyard and winery operations, relied on chemicals to ensure crop yields, especially during cool and rainy years when the risk of mildew was high. Losing even a small percentage of the harvest devastates a family’s income, especially today when Bourgogne grapes and wines command such high prices.

“Our generation started the trend towards organics,” says Erell Ninot of Domaine Ninot in the Rully appellation of the Côte Chalonnaise. The Ninot family has been producing wine since the 1300s. Erell and her brother Flavien run the organic-certified estate where respect for the soil drives them.

“Some of us had to wait a few years to keep our parents happy,” says Ninot, “but it is worth the wait. I stopped using chemicals 15 years ago, and since then, the soil has become more balanced, making it easier for the grapes to maintain their equilibrium. As a result, the wines have notably improved, displaying enhanced balance and quality.”

Ninot pointed out that the previous generation didn’t think about quality as much as today’s wine growers and often sold the wine to negotiants who blended it. “They paid less attention to terroir, mixing grapes from different plots. It was more about the volume than the quality.”

Not Easy, but Worth it

“Our father and grandfather used to spray chemical weed killers,” says Maxime Derey of Domaine des Frères Derey in Marsannay. At that time, the wines from our area were not as well known as they are today and not as easy to sell. They did it with one purpose: to spend less time in the vineyards so they would have more time to sell the wines and take care of their families. Growing organic takes a lot of time and costs a lot of human work.

Today, Maxime and his two brothers, Romain and Pierre-Marie, work with their father, Pierre, farming 22 hectares from Dijon to Gevry. Maxime says that starting new things is always spontaneous and based on what is happening in the vineyards. The brothers noticed the poor condition of the soil, so the first thing they did was introduce organic farming, certifying the estate in 2023.

“Stopping the use of chemicals helps with biodiversity,” says Maxime. “Before, the vineyards were just earth and vines, but now we maintain a minimum of grass in the vineyards. Grass protects the soil and its life and helps create organic matter. Now we also see a lot of rabbits, foxes, snakes, and all kinds of little animals that find what they need to eat.”

Gabin Richoux, 11th generation, with his brother Felix of Domaine Gabin et Felix Richoux in Irancy, states that if you have good soil, you will have good grapes. The Richoux family has been cultivating grapes and crafting wine in the charming village of Irancy since 1610. They are among the few producers in the appellation who farm organically and biodynamically, which is particularly challenging in this more northerly area of Bourgogne with its frequently harsh growing climate.

**Tasting from the barrels with Gabin Richoux.**

For 30 years, Gabin and Felix’s father, Thierry Richoux, has been working hard to produce wines that respect the unique terroir of Irancy. Now, the two sons are continuing the family spirit into the future.

“We were certified organic in 2013,” says Gabin, “and have used biodynamic treatments for 12 years, certified in 2021. We try to keep the microorganisms alive in the soil with gentle plowing, and we keep weeds in every other row because they have a good impact on the microbiome of the vineyard soil.”

On Global Warming

Climate change brings the challenges of erratic, unusual weather conditions. Yet, the warmer temperatures bring positivity: grapes ripen more easily and the growth of mold and mildew, which thrive in cloudy, damp conditions, is inhibited.

Jean-François Bersan of Domaine Bersan, an organic-certified winery in the Saint-Bris AOC of northern Bourgogne, says warmer, drier air helps growers farm organically.

The Bersan family’s wine-growing roots date back to the 15th century. Jean-François and his son Pierre-Louis, the 21st and 22nd generation of wine growers, want this tradition to continue for centuries. Yet they realize it won’t happen if they don’t respect the environment. They manage their vineyards and produce wines in the most natural way possible despite the risk of pests and disease.

“It really has been a challenge to produce organic wine in Bourgogne,” says Jean-François, “ but it is easier now due to the warmer, windier, sunnier climate.”

Pierre-Louis notes that his father’s attitude has made it easier for him to keep the vineyards healthy. “You have to open your eyes, try, adapt,” says Pierre-Louis. “The new generation of winegrowers in Burgundy is moving in this direction.”

At Domaine Thevenot le Brun, in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Nicolas and Hélène Thevenot are a fifth-generation brother-and-sister winemaking duo who are converting their 30 hectares of vines and cellar to organics.

“I only buy organic food, so I started to think it was silly not to grow my grapes organically,” says Thevenot.

Given the impacts of climate change on vineyards, particularly the springtime lack of rain, Thevenot stresses the importance of organic farming to protect the soils. He says that using organic methods protects not only the environment but also the people, both the residents who live near the winery and consumers who drink his wine.

”No doubt the climate is changing, and the consequences on the vineyards are difficult to say,” says Thevenot. “Organic practices, such as the use of nutrient-rich fertilizers instead of chemical ones, help the soils retain water, improving soil and grape quality. My father did everything possible to use fewer chemical products, but since the region’s wines sell well and get good prices, he wasn’t motivated to change things. Today, whether certified or not, becoming organic is more common in Bourgogne.”

By ditching harmful chemicals, many of Bourgogne’s wine producers are willing to do whatever it takes to foster healthy soils. They are setting a great example for their peers and for future generations to come.

“I am the 21st generation,” says Jean-François Bersan, “and I want 21 more generations to be here too. If you put bad things in the soil, that won’t be possible.”

**in the ancient cellars of** **Domaine Bersan with Jean-François Bersan.**

* On the using the word Bourgogne instead of Burgundy: The region’s wine labels and correspondence now use Bourgogne, the original French name, instead of Burgundy, the translated version created years ago for the export market.